Kioni is one of the prettiest villages in the Ionian — a horseshoe of stone-and-stucco houses around a small harbour on the north-east coast. Three ruined windmills stand on the headland at the entrance to the bay, the most photographed image on Ithaca after Odysseus himself.
There is nothing much to do here beyond eat at one of the half-dozen tavernas along the quay, swim off the rocks at the harbour mouth, and watch the fishing boats come and go. That is the point. Yachts drop in for the night in summer; in winter the village empties out to almost nobody.