Kalamata's reputation for olives is fully deserved — the black olives from the Messinian plain are arguably Greece's finest, and they appear on virtually every table in the city. The local cuisine builds on this base: olive oil is used lavishly, seafood is excellent given the port, and the area produces good figs, honey, and wine.
The densest concentration of restaurants is along the seafront and in the old town around Aristomenous Street. The seafront places are more expensive but have better atmosphere on summer evenings; the old town restaurants are more local in character and better value.
Ta Rolla, founded in 1924, is one of the oldest tavernas in the city and a good reference point for traditional cooking. A plate of sardines with local olives and a glass of ouzo before a main of grilled fish is a thoroughly reliable Kalamata meal — unpretentious, fresh, and inexpensive by most European standards.