Sappho Square (Plateia Sapphou) — named for the island's most famous ancient daughter — is the hub of the south harbour promenade. The row of cafes and bars that line its eastern edge starts filling at 9am with people working through Greek coffee and sesame pastries, and the same tables still have customers at midnight sipping ouzo. It's the place to sit, watch the ferries arrive, and let the morning go. Several cafes also serve good loukoumades (honey-drenched doughnuts) and fresh-squeezed orange juice for under €3. No particular establishment dominates — any table with a harbour view will do.