The narrow lanes around Epano Skala, the north harbour neighbourhood below the castle, are where Mytilini goes out at night. The bars here are small, unpretentious, and cheap — the student population from the University of the Aegean keeps them honest. Music ranges from Greek pop to rock to the inevitable summer playlist, and most places stay open until 3am or later in July and August. The neighbourhood is compact enough to wander from bar to bar. It is noticeably quieter in the off-season when the students leave and the ferries thin out.