A traditional ouzo bar and seafood taverna in the Epano Skala area of the north harbour, Kalderimi is exactly what you come to Mytilini for. The menu is oral — whatever came in that morning — and tends to run through grilled fish, fried calamari, stuffed peppers, and the excellent local sardele pastes (salt-cured sardines). The house ouzo comes from one of the local distilleries. Arrive early in the evening if you want a waterfront table; locals fill the place by 8pm. Prices are honest and portions generous.