The back streets of Ano Poli have a cluster of small ouzeries and tavernas that offer a quieter and more local alternative to the busy Ladadika scene below. They are casual places, often with no written menu, where the owner recites what is available — usually a short list of grilled fish, grilled meat, octopus, local cheeses, and the seasonal vegetable dishes that Greek cooking does so well.
The best approach is to walk up into Ano Poli without a reservation and follow your nose. Aim for the lanes around Polignotou Street and the area near the Church of the Transfiguration. A meal with ouzo or tsipouro and a few mezedes will cost €15–20 per person. The neighbourhood is up a steep hill, which means the evening air is a degree or two cooler than the waterfront, and the view down from the terrace tables is one of the better rewards for the walk up.