Thessaloniki takes its café-sitting more seriously than almost any other city in Europe. Students nurse a single freddo espresso for three hours along the seafront and nobody minds; in summer the tables spill out across half the pavement. Nightlife is concentrated in Ladadika behind the port and the lanes off Valaoritou for bars and clubs, and up in Ano Poli for quieter rooftop drinks with a view of the bay.