The Bensousan Han is an Ottoman caravanserai — a roadside inn for merchants and their animals — that survived the 1917 fire and several decades of neglect to become one of the city's more atmospheric cultural spaces. The building dates from the 17th or 18th century and was originally used by Jewish and Muslim merchants. Today it houses a handful of workshops, music studios, and cultural organisations operating in the old courtyard rooms.
The courtyard itself is a good reason to walk in: a quiet rectangle of stone arches and weathered masonry, somehow still functioning while the city moves and changes around it. It is near the Modiano market and the Kapani market, and fits naturally into a wander through the old commercial centre. No admission charge; just walk in through the archway.