Trigono on Aristotelous Square is the most-argued-about bougatsa shop in a city that takes bougatsa very seriously. Bougatsa is a crisp, golden pastry parcel filled with warm semolina cream, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon — it is the canonical Thessaloniki breakfast and you must have it at least once while you are in the city. At Trigono it arrives folded into a triangle (hence the name), cut open at the table, and served with a bowl of extra cream if you want.
The shop opens early and stays busy all morning. They also serve savory variants — cheese, meat — but the sweet semolina cream is the original. Take it standing at the counter or sit in the square with the paper cup of Nescafé frappé that completes the picture. This is not fine dining; it is local ritual, and that makes it better.