Borkonyha has held a Michelin star since 2014 and remains one of the best arguments for modern Hungarian cooking. The menu is built around seasonal Hungarian ingredients — mangalica pork, foie gras, freshwater fish — handled with precision and presented without the stuffy formality that characterised high-end dining here a generation ago. The room is warm and relatively informal, and the wine list is exceptional, with deep coverage of Hungarian varietals from Tokaj, Eger, and Villány.
The tasting menu is the way to go if you have the appetite and the budget, but the à la carte is solid too. Reservations are essential, particularly at weekends. The kitchen understands what makes Hungarian flavours distinctive — the paprika, the richness, the sweetness-and-acid balance — and uses them intelligently rather than just imitating French technique with local labels.