L'Aquila's historic centre was badly damaged in the 2009 earthquake, but significant parts are now restored or in restoration, and the city's extraordinary heritage — medieval churches, the 16th-century Spanish fortress, the famous 99 fountains — is gradually returning to view. The Gran Sasso massif right on the doorstep gives the city an alpine dimension that few Italian regional capitals can match.
Start in Piazza del Duomo for the morning market and the cathedral, then walk five minutes north to the Forte Spagnolo for the National Museum of Abruzzo and the bastion walls. The Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio, with its pink-and-white stone facade, sits on the southern edge of town and is the city's most important medieval church. Half a day above town on the Gran Sasso funivia — and an afternoon at the dramatic ruined castle of Rocca Calascio, an hour south — round out a two-day visit.