Carunchio is a quiet hilltop village in southern Abruzzo, the kind of place where church bells mark the hours and not much else disturbs the afternoon. The views from the historic centre are beautiful — the Maiella massif, one of the highest mountains in the Apennines, dominates the western horizon.
The main church, San Giovanni Battista, has an organ dating from 1692 and is open for Sunday morning mass. The streets of the historic centre are steep and narrow, built for donkeys rather than cars. Just across the border into Molise, the Sanctuary of Madonna del Canneto is worth a detour — a 12th-century church set in a wooded valley, with a small museum of Roman agricultural implements on the grounds.
Carunchio is a place to drive to — public transport is essentially nonexistent. It sits just off the SS650, the road connecting the Adriatic coast at Vasto to Naples. From the coast, the drive takes about 30 minutes.