Melfi

Medieval Basilicata town below Monte Vulture, once the Norman capital of southern Italy

Melfi is a medieval town in northern Basilicata, set at the foot of the extinct volcano Monte Vulture. It was a Lombard stronghold in the early Middle Ages and later became the first Norman capital in southern Italy — the impressive Norman castle above the town was where Robert Guiscard was proclaimed Duke of Apulia in 1059 and where Frederick II promulgated the Constitutions of Melfi in 1231, one of the most important legal codes of the medieval world.

The castle now houses the Museo Nazionale del Melfese, with finds from the region including a fine Roman sarcophagus. The old town below is compact and atmospheric, with narrow streets and a cathedral rebuilt after the 1694 earthquake — though the medieval Romanesque bell tower survived. Melfi is also the gateway to the Aglianico del Vulture wine district, one of southern Italy's best reds, produced in villages scattered across the volcanic slopes of Monte Vulture.

Guide

Eating Out

Melfi is a small town with limited restaurant options, but what is there tends to be genuinely local and unpretentious. Basilicata cooking features strong flavours — peperoni cruschi (crispy dried peppers), lucanica sausage, and slow-cooked lamb — and the best meals here are in family-run trattorie where the menu changes with what's available. The Aglianico del Vulture wines are excellent with most of the local cooking.

Guide

Getting There

Melfi is in northern Basilicata, about 30 kilometres east of the Campania border. By car it is straightforward: the A16 motorway (Napoli–Bari) has an exit at Candela, from which Melfi is about 30 kilometres south on the SS93. From Naples the total drive is about two hours.

By train, the closest mainline stations are Foggia (to the north) and Potenza (to the south). From both there are local connections to Melfi, but services are infrequent. A car is strongly recommended for exploring the Vulture wine country around the town.