Caltabellotta is one of the highest villages in Sicily, perched on a rugged hilltop near Sciacca on the south coast. The bus ride up from Sciacca winds right up the mountainside and is half the fun. The village itself is crammed onto every available ledge below the crest.
There is a tunnel through the ridge that seems to connect two different climates: balmy and warm on one side, windswept and grey on the other. At the very summit, the Santuario di San Pellegrino is carved into the living rock below the ruins of a Norman castle — a strange and atmospheric place. The views over the rooftops, the Sicilian countryside, and on clear days the Mediterranean coast, are superb.
Caltabellotta has a small but genuine place in European history. In 1302, the Peace of Caltabellotta was signed here, ending the War of the Sicilian Vespers and establishing the independent Kingdom of Sicily under the Aragonese. The castle ruins where the signing took place are still visible at the top of the rock.