A beloved, boisterous trattoria in the Spanish Quarter famous for theatrical waiters, cheap local wine served in carafes, and old-school Neapolitan cooking — paccheri al ragù, pasta e fagioli, baccalà, and whatever else is on the handwritten daily menu. The atmosphere is chaotic and joyful; the food is honest and filling.
Arrive at 12:30 when it opens for lunch; the room fills immediately. Cash only, no English menu, no fuss.