Nestled in the foothills of the Apennines and bisected by the Reno River, Porretta Terme is a bit off the beaten path, west of the main highway that links Florence and Bologna. If you have time and want a reasonably priced spa experience, this is the place. Accessible by car or train, the town has a long history as a thermal destination — the Terme di Porretta draw visitors who have been coming to take the sulphureous waters since at least Roman times.
Every July, the small town punches far above its weight when the Porretta Soul Festival takes over. It is one of Europe's most respected events for American soul and R&B, booking original artists from the Stax and Fame records era. Even if you are not visiting for the festival, the town's curious obsession with soul music — visible in its record shops and memorabilia — is part of its character.