Paradise Gulf
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Paradise Gulf

Paradise Gulf

Liguria coastal gulf between Genoa and Portofino, lined with fishing towns below steep green hills

The Golfo Paradiso -- Paradise Gulf -- is the stretch of Ligurian coast between Genoa and Portofino, a string of small fishing towns backed by steep green hills dropping straight into the sea. The name is not an exaggeration: the light here is extraordinary, the water is clean, and the little harbours still feel like working places rather than stage sets.

The towns along the gulf -- Bogliasco, Sori, Recco, Camogli -- sit close together on the old Via Aurelia, which winds along the cliffs above the water. Each has its own character. Recco is famous for its focaccia col formaggio, a thin, crisp flatbread filled with molten stracchino cheese that people drive from Genoa specifically to eat. Camogli is the photogenic one, with tall painted houses crowded around a tiny harbour and fishing nets spread out on the quay.

The whole area sits just thirty minutes from central Genoa by train, making it an easy escape from the city. The coast path between the towns offers some of the best short walks in Liguria, with views across the gulf toward the Portofino headland.

Guide

Eating Out

The Paradise Gulf is focaccia country. Recco's focaccia col formaggio -- two paper-thin layers of dough with molten stracchino cheese between them -- is the signature dish of the entire coast, and bakeries in every town along the gulf have their own version. Trofie al pesto is the other essential: short, hand-rolled pasta twists dressed with the basil pesto that Liguria does better than anywhere else, often served with potatoes and green beans. The coast's extra-virgin olive oil ties everything together, and the local white wines from the hills above are the right match.

Guide

Getting There

The Paradise Gulf is easy to reach from Genoa, just thirty minutes away by train or car.

By train: The Genoa--La Spezia line stops at Bogliasco, Sori, Recco, and Camogli. Trains run frequently throughout the day. This is by far the easiest option -- parking along the coast is scarce in summer.

By car: Take the A12 motorway (Genoa--Livorno) and exit at Recco. The old Via Aurelia (SS1) follows the coast and is more scenic but slower.

By air: The nearest airport is Genoa Cristoforo Colombo (GOA), about 30 km west of Recco. From the airport, take a bus or taxi into central Genoa and pick up the coastal train from there.

Cities

Places in Paradise Gulf