Castelfidardo
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Castelfidardo

Castelfidardo

Marche hill town that is the world capital of accordion making, with a museum of historic instruments and a Risorgimento battlefield.

Castelfidardo is a small hill town ten kilometres inland from the Riviera del Conero, and it carries an outsized reputation: this is the world capital of accordion making. The industry began here in 1863, when Paolo Soprani set up a workshop in the cellar of the family farm, and the trade spread through the town until dozens of small factories were turning out instruments for players across the globe. Many workshops still operate, and the squeezebox remains woven into the town's identity.

The place to understand all this is the Museo Internazionale della Fisarmonica in the centre, which traces the history of the accordion and houses a remarkable collection of historic instruments — from ornate concert models to oddities and prototypes. Even if you have never given the accordion a second thought, the museum is a genuinely engaging hour, and the craftsmanship on display is extraordinary.

Castelfidardo has a second claim on history. In 1860 it was the site of the Battle of Castelfidardo, in which Piedmontese troops defeated the army of the Papal States — a decisive step toward the unification of Italy. A monument and a small museum mark the battlefield just outside town, and the surrounding hills make for an easy wander.

It is an undemanding place rather than a showpiece, but it makes a good half day on a quieter beach day, especially paired with nearby Loreto or Osimo. Come for the accordions; stay for the unhurried, workaday charm of a Marche town that has never had to perform for tourists.