A cathedral of a cafe inside the Galleria Subalpina, off Piazza Castello: stained glass, Belle Époque mirrors, marble pillars, gilded plasterwork. Opened in 1875 as the headquarters of the chocolate makers Baratti & Milano, who are still in business and whose dark gianduja chocolates are sold at the front counter.
Sit down for an espresso and a chocolate, watch the office workers stop in for a cigarette and a pastry between meetings, and look up at the painted ceiling. The pasticceria sells the same gianduiotti, marrons glacés and crystallised violets that it did when it opened.