Farmacia del Cambio

A small bar-pasticceria attached to the eighteenth-century restaurant Del Cambio, opened in 2014 as a more accessible front door to the same kitchen. Whitewashed walls, polished brass, and the city's best modern pastry counter — fewer than ten things, but each made to a high standard.

A reliable lunch on the run: a couple of stand-up tartines, a glass of Erbaluce, and an espresso back at the marble counter. They also do takeaway boxes of chocolates and pastries that travel well.

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