Caffè Mulassano

A tiny gilded room on Piazza Castello, twenty square metres of marble and mahogany under a coffered Art Nouveau ceiling. Most customers stand at the bar for an espresso; the cafe is most famous for its tramezzini, the small white-bread triangles invented here in 1925.

Order half a dozen as an aperitivo. The classic fillings — tuna and artichoke, anchovy, gorgonzola and walnut — are still the best in Turin. The cafe is one of the registered "historic shops" of Italy and has barely changed since 1907.

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A story
Mulassano invented the tramezzino — the soft white-bread triangle that has filled Italian station cafes ever since — in 1925. The owners' wife Angela was Italian-American and missed the sandwich bread of New York; the bakery next door agreed to bake her a softer loaf, and the staff put it on the menu.

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