The grand cafe on Piazza San Carlo, with chandeliers, mirrored walls, and the brass-inlaid bull set into the pavement outside that everyone rubs with their foot for luck. Opened in 1903 and still one of the city's best aperitivo addresses.
The buffet from 6 p.m. is generous, the cocktails are fairly priced, and the people-watching from the porticoes is among the best in Italy. The cafe also serves food at lunch and dinner, but is at its best for a single Negroni Sbagliato at seven in the evening.