The streets immediately behind and around the Porta Praetoria hold several small trattorias that serve straightforward Valle d'Aosta cooking without tourist-menu pretensions. The typical menu follows the seasons: in autumn and winter, carbonade — beef braised in red wine with bay and cloves, served over polenta — is the standard main course. In spring the lighter preparations come out: salads of local greens, trout from the valley streams, and lighter pasta with herb sauces.
Fonduta valdostana, the local cheese fondue made with Fontina, egg yolks, and white truffle shavings if in season, is the dish to order as a starter or shared first course. It arrives in a small pot with bread for dipping and is richer than it looks. The local wine list will typically include Torrette (the valley's most widely planted red, from Petit Rouge) and Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle (a white grown at over 1,000 metres altitude, one of the highest-altitude wines in Europe). Lunch service runs the standard Italian hours; booking is advisable for Friday and Saturday evenings.