Etno Dvaras on Pilies Street is one of the better places to eat traditional Lithuanian food without resorting to tourist-trap approximations. The menu is built around cepelinai (potato dumplings with meat or curd), šaltibarščiai (cold pink beet soup with kefir), skilandis (smoked pork sausage), and other dishes that appear on Lithuanian tables rather than just in restaurants designed for foreigners.
The room is decorated in a rustic folk style — wooden furniture, woven textiles, dried herbs — that teeters between charm and kitsch but lands on the right side. Prices are reasonable. The lunch menu is particularly good value. This is the place to try Lithuanian food for the first time if you haven't yet; it takes the cooking seriously without overcomplicating it.