The Waalkade — the riverside promenade directly below Valkhof hill — is lined with café-restaurant terraces that have the best setting in Nijmegen: wooden decking over the water, views across the wide Waal, the bridge off to one side and the old harbour cranes in the other direction. In summer the terraces fill from mid-afternoon and stay busy until late. The food ranges from Dutch bar snacks and burgers to proper full meals; quality varies but the location compensates for a lot.
The Kwartier neighbourhood immediately behind the Waalkade — a cluster of streets between the river and the Benedenstad — has a denser, more local character: smaller restaurants, independent cafés, and a few spots that depend on Radboud University regulars rather than tourists. This is where to look for better cooking at lower prices. The whole area is best explored on foot; half the pleasure is wandering until something looks right.