Nijmegen is the oldest city in the Netherlands — Romans were here before the Dutch — and the history shows in layers: a Carolingian palace hill, medieval city walls, a bridge that changed hands during one of WWII's defining battles. It's also a lively university city with a strong café culture, a waterfront that fills up in summer, and the world's largest walking event passing through every July. The combination is more interesting than the tourist infrastructure might suggest.