Warsaw's food scene has transformed since 1989. The old milk bars (bar mleczny) — Soviet-era subsidised canteens serving cheap Polish staples — survive and have had an unexpected renaissance; they are excellent value and genuinely popular with locals. Alongside them, a serious restaurant scene has grown up in Powiśle, Śródmieście, and Praga, from pierogi joints to contemporary Polish tasting menus.
The staples to look for: żurek (sour rye soup often served in a bread bowl), bigos (hunter's stew of sauerkraut and meat), pierogi (dumplings in endless varieties), kotlet schabowy (breaded pork cutlet), and flaki (tripe soup, for the brave). Smażona ryba — fried fish — is available at dedicated fish restaurants and is very good.