Cacilhas is the best reason to eat in Almada. The cluster of seafood restaurants along the riverside has been luring Lisboetas across the Tagus for generations — the ferry journey from Cais do Sodré takes twelve minutes and the fish is noticeably fresher and cheaper than across the river. Grilled horse mackerel (carapau) is the signature dish, but açorda de marisco (bread and shellfish stew) and bacalhau (salt cod) are equally reliable. Arrive hungry and expect to share a table.