Lisbon's bar scene is concentrated in Bairro Alto, Cais do Sodré, and increasingly in LX Factory and Mouraria. Bairro Alto operates on a grid of narrow streets where dozens of bars open onto the pavement; the crowd spills out and moves between venues in a sociable drift that goes on until 2 or 3am.
Cais do Sodré has evolved from a rough sailors' district into one of the city's most interesting nightlife areas, anchored by the Pink Street (Rua Nova do Carvalho), where dive bars and music venues run most of the night. The Time Out Market, also in Cais do Sodré, is more of a food hall but with a lively bar area and extended hours.
A bica (espresso) at a traditional café counter is one of the classic Lisbon experiences. Café A Brasileira in Chiado, where Fernando Pessoa's statue sits on the terrace, is the famous choice; Café Nicola on Rossio is another historic option. For something less touristy, find a neighbourhood café and order at the counter — prices are lower and the atmosphere more local.
Ginjinha — a sweet cherry liqueur — is the traditional Lisbon shot. A Ginjinha on Largo São Domingos has been serving it since 1840 from a tiny stand-up bar.