Lisbon's food scene divides roughly into the traditional and the contemporary, and both are worth exploring. The traditional tascas — tiny, tile-walled restaurants packed at lunchtime — serve bacalhau (salt cod in dozens of preparations), grilled sardines, pork dishes, and cheap wine by the jug. The Portuguese eat a large lunch late and a late dinner, so arriving at a restaurant at 7pm marks you as a tourist; 8 to 10pm is the local rhythm.
Bacalhau à brás (salt cod scrambled with eggs and thin-cut chips), grilled sea bream, and francesinha (a Porto tradition that's also popular here) are all worth seeking out. Pastéis de nata — custard tarts with a burnished, slightly caramelised top — are eaten at breakfast and throughout the day. The original, made since 1837, is from Pastéis de Belém in Belém, though good versions appear in every bakery.
The newer generation of restaurants has brought Alentejo wines, natural wine bars, and sophisticated Portuguese cooking to the Cais do Sodré and Príncipe Real neighbourhoods in particular. Lisbon now has a few Michelin-starred restaurants, and the mid-range dining has improved markedly over the past decade.