Furnas
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Furnas

Furnas

São Miguel volcanic town of steaming fumaroles, lake-shore cozido pits, and lush botanical gardens.

Furnas is a small town in the volcanic interior of São Miguel, with two main draws: the volcanic activity and the botanical garden.

The geothermal area is best seen at Lagoa das Furnas, a few kilometres southwest of town. The smell of sulphur is heavy, and small fumaroles of bubbling, boiling water hiss from the ground along the lake shore. Some of these natural vents are used for cooking cozido das Furnas — a traditional stew slow-cooked underground in volcanic heat, then served at restaurants in the town centre. A good walk starts at the southern end of the lake (near the Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias), follows the western shore to the fumarole area, and continues on a trail back into town.

The Terra Nostra Garden, founded around 200 years ago by the American Thomas Hickling, is one of the finest botanical gardens in the Azores. At its centre is a large pool of warm, iron-rich thermal water — the rejuvenating properties are much advertised, though the yellowish-brown colour takes some getting used to. In the village itself, the Caldeiras da Vila bring the boiling springs right into the centre, and the smaller Poça da Dona Beija thermal pools stay open until late evening.

Guide

Eating Out

Furnas is famous for one dish: the cozido das Furnas, a meat and vegetable stew cooked underground using volcanic heat. Several restaurants in town serve it — it takes hours to prepare, so arrive for lunch. Beyond the cozido, the town has a few small restaurants catering to day-trippers from Ponta Delgada.

Guide

Getting There

There are some buses running between Furnas and Ponta Delgada, though the service is infrequent. If you want to walk around Lagoa das Furnas, get off the bus where you first see the lake (coming from Ponta Delgada). For the fumarole area, stay on until the stop at the other end of the lake, closer to town. A rental car gives much more flexibility.

Guide

Things to Do

Furnas can keep you busy for a full day if you combine a walk around the lake with a visit to the garden.

The Terra Nostra Garden is the highlight — one of the most beautiful gardens in the Azores, with endemic plants, ponds, streams, and the famous thermal bathing pool. Entry is around 8 euros for adults.

The fumaroles at Lagoa das Furnas are a short walk from town and free to visit. Watch locals lower pots of cozido into the ground in the morning, then return hours later to pull out the fully cooked stew.