The Ivolginsky Datsan, about 30 kilometres west of Ulan-Ude, is the spiritual centre of Russian Buddhism and the residence of the Pandito Khambo Lama. Founded in 1945 — when Stalin briefly allowed Buddhism to reopen — it has grown into a complex of brightly painted temples, stupas, and monks' quarters in the steppe.
Walk the kora clockwise around the temples; you will pass spinning prayer wheels and pilgrims pressing their foreheads to the wood. The main temple, with its incense-thick interior and grand altar, is open to visitors who behave respectfully. Pilgrim minibuses (marshrutkas) run from the central market in Ulan-Ude. Allow a full half-day including travel.