Three Hats is the oldest and most traditional of the Skadarlija kafanas, on the cobbled main street of the bohemian quarter. The restaurant has operated in this location since 1864 and maintains the full Serbian kafana experience: long tables, strolling musicians playing folk songs, and plates of grilled meat that arrive in generous quantities. The menu is straightforward — ćevapi, mešano meso (mixed grill), grilled fish, and Serbian salads — and the portions are large.
It is the most tourist-frequented restaurant on the street, which cuts both ways: the production is reliable and the musicians know how to work the room. Book a table in advance for evenings, especially in summer, when the courtyard fills up. A meal here, with several glasses of Serbian wine or domestic beer, is one of the classic Belgrade evenings.