Casa Roja sits directly on the quayside of the Varadero old harbour, with a small terrace over the water and a chalkboard of whichever fish came in that morning. The kitchen does the simple things well — grilled vieja (parrotfish) and dorada (gilthead bream) with papas arrugadas and the standard red and green mojo sauces, fritura mixta, and a clean lemon-and-olive-oil dressed salad. The Lanzarote white wines on the list are well-chosen.
It is one of the more expensive places in Puerto del Carmen — the harbour location commands a premium — but the quality is reliable and it remains a favourite of locals as well as tourists. Booking essential in high season. Lunchtime in winter sun on the terrace is the best time to come.