San Baudelio de Berlanga is one of the most memorable small churches in Castile: a remote Mozarabic hermitage whose interior is organised around a single central column that branches like a stone palm tree. The space is intimate, strange, and far more powerful than its plain exterior suggests.
The church is well outside Soria, so it belongs in the guide as a day-trip target rather than a casual city stop. Its medieval frescoes were partly removed and dispersed to museums, but enough remains to make the visit important for travellers interested in Romanesque art, frontier Christianity, and the lonely landscapes south of the Duero.