The young, loud, deliberately provocative second restaurant of three-Michelin-starred Madrid chef Dabiz Muñoz, perched on the rooftop of the Galería Canalejas shopping centre. The cooking is Asian fusion cranked to the limit — Iberian pork dumplings with kimchi, lobster carpaccio with chilli oil and katsuobushi, foie gras with passion-fruit, all served on bare metal counters by a kitchen brigade in red SWAT-team boilersuits.
Two seatings a night, around €120 a head before drinks. Reservations open at midnight on the website three weeks ahead and sell out in minutes. The cooking is genuinely original and most diners leave very impressed; a few find the whole production exhausting. Music is loud and dress code is whatever you want.