The neighbourhood's social centre — a sunny, slightly tilted square lined with café terraces that serve as outdoor living room for one of Madrid's most diverse communities. The crowd on the square at any time of day is a genuine cross-section: Indian restaurant workers on a break, old men playing dominoes, art students, and the regular contingent of people watching everything from the bar stools.
The surrounding streets are worth wandering: Calle de Argumosa has the highest concentration of pavement bars; Calle de la Fe and Calle del Olivar have small galleries, vintage shops, and independent cafés. On warm evenings, the square fills with people drinking cañas from the adjacent bars, bottles purchased from the small Indian-run supermarkets. Metro Lavapiés.