The compact wooden town centre is what makes Hjo distinctive. Painted timber houses in the deep ochre red typical of Swedish heritage districts line a tight grid of narrow streets, with the harbour, the square, and the church all within a few minutes of each other. Many of the buildings carry workshops, small shops, or cafes on the ground floor; the upper storeys are still residential.
Walk from the harbour up Stora Torget past the town hall and church, then duck into the back lanes between Sandtorget and Trädgårdsgatan. The area is protected as a national cultural heritage site, which means even minor exterior changes go through review. Wander slowly — there is no museum-route to follow, the town simply is the exhibit.