Yalta packs an improbable amount into a small stretch of Black Sea coast. The big draws are the tsarist palaces — Livadia above all, where Churchill, Roosevelt, and Stalin carved up postwar Europe over a long February weekend in 1945. The embankment is for strolling and people-watching; the mountains behind the city are for hiking. Chekhov's white dacha sits halfway up the hill. Wine tasting at Massandra rewards those who can navigate past the Soviet-era branding.