☰The Royal Mile

The spine of the Old Town, running downhill from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Steep wynds and closes branch off either side, packed with tartan shops, whisky bars, kirks and tenement courts. It is touristy in the obvious way but the bones of medieval Edinburgh are still here, especially after dark when the ghost tours start and the day-trippers thin out. Walk the whole length once, then duck into a close — that is where the city gets interesting.