Edinburgh has reinvented itself as one of Britain's better eating cities over the past two decades. The Old Town is dense with pubs serving honest plates of haggis, fish and chips, and steak pie alongside the inevitable tourist menus; the New Town is where the smart bistros, brasseries and Michelin-listed rooms cluster, especially around George Street and along Stockbridge. Leith is the surprise — half a dozen first-rate restaurants line The Shore, including The Kitchin and Restaurant Martin Wishart. For Scottish classics done well, look for haggis with neeps and tatties, Cullen skink (smoked-haddock chowder), Loch Fyne oysters, and a proper aged Aberdeen Angus steak.