For a town of 8,000 people, North Berwick has a strong restaurant scene — independent kitchens have multiplied in the last decade as Edinburgh chefs moved out of the city. Look along the High Street and Quality Street for the main concentration.
The Lobster Shack on the harbour does an excellent lobster roll and lobster mac and cheese, eaten outside on benches with a view of the Bass Rock. Steampunk on the High Street is a small specialist coffee roastery with good breakfasts. The Rocketeer, in the old lifeboat shed beside the Seabird Centre, has the best harbour-view dining. For dinner, The Marine Hotel's dining room and Williams & Johnson are the upscale picks.