Museo Rufino Tamayo

Pre-Hispanic art collection assembled by Oaxaca's greatest painter

The Museo Rufino Tamayo houses the collection of pre-Hispanic art assembled over several decades by the Oaxacan painter Rufino Tamayo and donated by him to his home city. Unlike the national anthropology museums in Mexico City, this collection was selected entirely on aesthetic criteria — Tamayo bought what he thought was beautiful and surprising — which makes it unusual and rewarding to spend time with.

The collection spans roughly 3,000 years of Mesoamerican art: Olmec figurines, Zapotec funerary urns, Teotihuacan masks, Aztec vessels, and pieces from dozens of smaller cultures. The building itself, a restored colonial house on García Vigil, is appropriately handsome. Allow an hour; the collection is not enormous but rewards slow looking. The museum is often overlooked by visitors rushing to Santo Domingo and Monte Albán — a mistake.

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A story
Rufino Tamayo, one of Mexico's most celebrated twentieth-century painters, spent decades collecting pre-Hispanic art not for its market value but for its aesthetic quality — a then-radical position that defied the prevailing view of ancient Mexican artefacts as ethnographic specimens rather than works of art. He donated the entire collection to the state of Oaxaca in 1974.

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