The Plaza de Armas is the heart of Veracruz and one of the most animated main squares in Mexico. The Palacio Municipal and the Cathedral flank it on two sides; the portales — covered arcades lined with cafes — run along the other sides, their tables extending out into the plaza. Most evenings, son jarocho musicians set up in the square and couples dance on the paving stones in a way that feels entirely natural rather than performed for tourists.
The plaza is best in the evening, when the heat has dropped and the city comes out. During the day it is pleasant for coffee and people-watching under the portales, but the real atmosphere begins after sunset. Veracruz Carnival, held in February or March, turns the plaza into the epicentre of one of the largest street parties in Latin America; if your visit coincides with it, clear your schedule.