Vieques is a beach island. The wildlife refuge covers half of it, the bioluminescent bay is one of the brightest on the planet, and the empty stretches of former Navy land have some of the cleanest, least-developed sand in the Caribbean. There are a few historic buildings in Isabel Segunda and a fort worth an hour, but most days fall into the same easy pattern: a swim, lunch on a malecón, another swim, sunset rum.
Wild horses wander the roads — they descended from the Spanish stock left behind centuries ago — and have the unnerving habit of standing in the middle of unlit lanes after dark. Drive slowly at night.