San Bruno
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San Bruno

San Bruno

Bay Area suburb between SFO and San Bruno Mountain, marked by Tanforan's layered history.

San Bruno is a working-class suburb on the western edge of San Francisco Bay, jammed between San Francisco International Airport and the wooded ridges of San Bruno Mountain. Few visitors come here on purpose — most pass through changing planes or stopping at the BART station — but the city is more interesting than its strip-mall first impression suggests.

This was the site of Tanforan Racetrack, one of the most famous horse-racing venues on the West Coast for sixty years, and later a Japanese-American internment assembly centre where families were held in former horse stalls in 1942 before being shipped to camps further inland. The shopping mall that replaced the track now carries a sober memorial to that history. The Golden Gate National Cemetery on the north side of town is one of the largest military cemeteries in the United States, with 140,000 graves in geometric rows.

For walkers, Junipero Serra County Park climbs into the coastal hills with trails through oak woodland and grassland, with views back across the bay to the runways. The National Archives at the Leo J. Ryan Federal Building hold a major Pacific Region collection — particularly strong on Chinese immigration records from the Angel Island era — and are open to researchers.

San Bruno makes a practical stopover if your flight is at SFO: hotels are cheaper than downtown San Francisco, BART and Caltrain both reach the city in twenty minutes, and the Pacific is twenty minutes' drive over the ridge to Pacifica.

Guide

Eating Out

San Bruno punches above its weight for food, mostly thanks to the Filipino, Chinese, and Mexican immigrant communities that have settled here. A walk along San Mateo Avenue, the closest thing the city has to a main street, turns up half a dozen good options.

Hangry Planet on San Mateo Avenue claims to be the first vegan convenience store in North America, with cold-case sandwiches, plant-based pantry staples, and a small café area. Marination further down the same street does Hawaiian–Korean fusion — the kalua pork tacos and Spam musubi are the things to order. For sit-down dim sum, Koi Palace in nearby Daly City is widely rated as one of the best Cantonese restaurants in Northern California; it is fifteen minutes' drive north.

The El Camino Real strip is lined with Mexican taquerías, Filipino bakeries (try the ensaymada at Valerio's), and Vietnamese phở counters; for an authentic lechon dinner the long-standing Filipino Heritage Cuisine is worth seeking out. None of this is fancy, but most of it is the real thing.

Guide

Getting There

San Bruno sits at the geographic dead centre of the Bay Area's transport hub. SFO is two minutes' drive away — almost no other Bay city is closer to the airport.

BART runs to San Bruno station from downtown San Francisco in about 30 minutes (Yellow and Red lines) and on to Millbrae. Caltrain stops at a separate station near downtown, with regular service south to Palo Alto, San Jose, and on to Gilroy.

By car, take Highway 101 north or south, or take I-280 — the more scenic option, running through the wooded ridges west of town.