Almost everything here is some form of being on, over, or alongside Moosehead Lake. Take a seaplane ride out of the lake to see the unbroken forest from above, ride the 1914 steamboat Katahdin to Mount Kineo, climb Big Moose Mountain for the long view back down the water. North of town the roads turn from blacktop to logging gravel and the territory simply opens out — backcountry on a scale most travellers have never seen.