Chattanooga sits in a bend of the Tennessee River, wedged between the ridges of Lookout Mountain and Signal Mountain. It was a strategic prize during the Civil War -- three major battles were fought here in 1863 -- and spent much of the twentieth century as a gritty industrial town. The transformation since then has been remarkable. What was once one of America's most polluted cities now regularly appears on lists of the country's best small cities, with a revitalized downtown, a genuinely walkable riverfront, and outdoor recreation that punches well above its weight.
The riverfront is the anchor. The Tennessee Aquarium draws most first-time visitors, but the real pleasure is the Riverwalk itself -- a 16-mile path along the water that connects parks, bridges, and neighborhoods. The Walnut Street Bridge, one of the longest pedestrian bridges in the world, links downtown to the North Shore, where Frazier Avenue has a cluster of independent shops and restaurants.
Lookout Mountain is the other essential. You can ride the Incline Railway -- billed as the steepest passenger railway in the world -- to the top, then visit Rock City's ancient rock formations and gardens, or descend underground to Ruby Falls. The views from Point Park at the summit stretch across seven states on a clear day.
Chattanooga is also a serious outdoor town. Rock climbing at the Tennessee Wall, hang gliding off Lookout Mountain, paddling on the river, and some of the best mountain biking in the Southeast are all within easy reach. The city's free electric shuttle buses make getting around downtown painless.