Esquel
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Esquel

Esquel

Patagonian foothill city near Los Alerces National Park, surrounded by lakes, rivers, and ancient alerce forest.

Esquel is a small city in the Andean foothills of Chubut Province, in the Argentine Patagonian lake district. It sits at the edge of the Andes, surrounded by lakes, rivers, and the vast Lago Futalaufquen in Los Alerces National Park to the west. The national park protects an ancient alerce forest — alerce trees (Fitzroya cupressoides) can live for over 3,000 years, and some of the specimens in the park are among the oldest living things on earth.

Esquel is also the southern terminus of La Trochita, the famous narrow-gauge steam railway better known as the Old Patagonian Express (after the Paul Theroux book). The train still runs on certain days and is worth riding for the experience of crossing the steppe behind a steam engine that looks as if it belongs in another century. The town is quiet and unpretentious, and it makes a good base for trekking, fly fishing, and skiing at La Hoya in winter. The small Welsh village of Trevelin, 25km to the south, makes a worthwhile half-day for its tea houses and the Nant-y-fall waterfalls.

Guide

Eating Out

Esquel's restaurant scene is small but solid. Don Chiquino is the long-running pasta house (chef-owner Maurizio's pasta is hand-rolled and the lamb ravioli excellent), La Tour d'Argent serves Patagonian lamb and trout, and La Espana on the main square does respectable Spanish-style tapas and steaks. For straightforward Argentine asado, La Esquina by the bus terminal is the locals' choice. Welsh tea houses (casas de té) in nearby Trevelin serve a substantial afternoon spread of cakes, scones and dense Welsh fruit cake.

Guide

Getting There

Esquel has a small airport with daily flights to Buenos Aires (about two hours) on Aerolineas Argentinas; it is by far the easiest way in. Onward connections to El Calafate and Ushuaia exist but are infrequent.

By road, Esquel is roughly halfway between Bariloche (3 hours, 280km north on the spectacular Ruta 40 / Camino de los Siete Lagos route) and Comodoro Rivadavia on the Atlantic. Long-distance buses run daily to and from both, and to Buenos Aires (a 24-hour overnight). The bus terminal is in the centre of Esquel, walking distance from most hotels.

Guide

Things to Do

Esquel itself is small and unhurried — a couple of streets of low buildings, a small square, a stone-and-wood Patagonian architecture, an old Welsh church. The real attractions are outside town: the ancient alerce forest in Los Alerces National Park to the west, the steam railway La Trochita that runs from the station east across the steppe, and the La Hoya ski resort just north of town. Allow at least two or three days to see the area properly; longer if you want to fish, ride or trek.

Guide

When to Go

Patagonian seasons run opposite to the northern hemisphere. December to March is summer — warm days, long evenings, dry weather, and the busiest tourist months for Los Alerces National Park and La Trochita. Booking accommodation in January and early February is essential.

April and November are shoulder months — cool, often clear, far fewer visitors, autumn colours in the lenga forests in April. June to October is ski season at La Hoya; the days are short and cold, but the town is at its most atmospheric, with snow on the surrounding hills and the steam train running on weekend specials. The wind blows almost constantly year round; it is the defining feature of Patagonian weather.