The Lomas de Arena is one of Bolivia's strangest natural phenomena: a 14,000-hectare protected park where walls of pale sand rise dozens of metres out of the tropical savanna, just 12 km south of Santa Cruz. The dunes are constantly reshaped by the wind that funnels in from the Chaco, shifting visibly from year to year. At their base, a series of shallow lagoons forms during the wetter months, attracting flocks of pink flamingos — an incongruous sight against the tan sand and dry forest.
Getting there is straightforward but requires the right vehicle. The access track is sandy, and standard cars get stuck; hire a 4x4 with a driver in Santa Cruz, or book a half-day tour with one of the operators in the city centre. The drive is about 45 minutes. Tour packages often combine the dunes with a swim in the lagoons and a short walk through the dry scrub forest that fringes the park.
There is no shade on the dunes themselves, so an early start makes a real difference in the November-to-April heat. Bring water and sunscreen. Sandboarding is popular on weekends, when locals descend the slopes on boards, and the lagoons fill with families. Go midweek if you want the dunes to yourself.